The full Owner's Manual is available for free download here.
From the Cleaning & Maintenance section:
Clean the barrel bore with a premium quality, powder removing solvent and bore brush. Wipe the bore clean with a bore patch or swab. Using a small brush and solvent, remove all deposits from around the breech of the barrel, and chamber, extractor, locking lugs, and adjacent areas which have been subjected to the action of the powder or primer residue. Remove any residue on the frame with light brushing and solvent. Clean the magazine well by removing any grit, dust, or residue with a magazine well swab.
The Boberg XR9-S comes pre-lubricated at the factory with a non-evaporating lubricant. However, it is recommended that the XR9-S be periodically lubricated, especially after cleaning. In Figures 13-20 the key lubrication points are shown. One drop of oil in each area is recommended. Any excess lubricant should be wiped off, especially on the grip area. While we currently use Break-Free CLP™ brand lubricant; any product of equivalent performance should be sufficient.
And use a Moly-based lube such as LPS on the unlock block as shown:
Got the thread, thanks. I just feel that these "delicate" firearms such as modern semi-autos are so complex that a "sonic bath" may not be good for them. I would stick to "ultra sounding" revolvers. Besides it's easier to get the grips off most revolvers. I have two Smiths with those "plastic" type grips which have a special procedure to dislodge.
I would just lubricate the XR9-S basically everywhere with Breakfree CLP after a good cleaning and wipe the excess or residual lubricants. (Light coating on the barrel, recoild spring and rod). I put mine in a canvas bank bag in the safe and a day or two later I wipe it down from any lube which leaches from the operating parts like the mag release button and other areas.
I am not saying to "drown" the pistol in lubricant, just make sure the important areas get some treatment.
Has anyone had their XR-9s refinished in a self lubricating coating like nickel boron(FailZero,NiBx,etc) or nickel teflon(NP3, etc)?
For all you "Lubrication Groupies" (I hope that sounds proper), I'm replying to my own discussion with a suggestion on where you can purchase the LPS molyd anti-seize product which should be used to lubricate that well-known component called "the unlock block." The product is "Arne endorsed." I will provide to sites. One site seems to have a discount and I believe the other site will provide a discount to first time purchasers. The product is LPS Premium All-Purpose Anti-Seize. 1/2 lb. container. Product Number 04108. Price varies, plus tax and shipping. The 1/2 lb. is the smallest container size I could locate. See below:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRHM or telephone: 800-645-7270
Keep in mind you still have to use Break Free CLP to lubricate the other parts as recommended unless some with to use their own "recipes."
OK, so it's a Breakfree product if but only "lubricate and preserve." What product would that be? Breakfree also provides a foam bore cleaner to remove copper residue. I use it sometimes after cleaning the bore with a various cleaning solvents or Hoppes No. 9, or Hoppes Elite. I believe everyone has their own individual cleaning rituals. I haven't heard any comments about "sonic" cleaning methods and solvents. It may not be recommended due to the quantity of parts in this pistol eventhough some say they have a bit or work getting into the "nooks and crannies." Maybe Arne can advise.
Can I use FrogLube?
I've never used FrogLube. People will give you sundry reasons why you should or not use a product. I think you should ask Arne. Arne was the purveyor of using BreakFree CLP and LTS Molyd antiseize for the unlock block. Whatever I would use I would always use LTS Molyd for the unlock block. Put two small dabs into the area where the barrel protrusion enters.
I just did my first application of the antiseize goop and I think I applied WAAAY too much. I had to wipe off the extra that was sqeezed between the barrel and unlock block. I'm thinking of using a toothpick next time. It seem like you only need a tiny bit to do the job.
Boberg, et al.,
We're in the realm of 'micro' and 'minute,' so think dental tools and hobby/model building - I get my supplies at the local flea market and hobby store -
Firm and non-abrasive applicators for lubricants (low and high viscosity) that are suitable for hard to reach areas. (Note: The stem of the 'Microbrush' can be bent to any angle to accommodate placement.)
Oh, they work on the big stuff too, like AR's and Mausers.
"Goop Away." Nonetheless, a small "dab will do ya'" inside the hole of the unlock block. The choice of "external" lube, to the other areas of the working parts is up to you. I use BreakFree CLP as mentioned. I also put a smooth coating of Hoppes No. 9 oil on the surface of the barrel or use some excess BreakFree.
I use a very thin coat of Ballistol on all the "standard" lube points. LPS Anti-seize of course in the unlock block.
I think any decent general firearms lube for the other areas should be fine.
Don't worry about it. I notice on my XR9-S that one end seems "tighter" on the recoil rod but you can use either end of the spring. Just make sure that there are no sharp edges where the spring ends its final coil. Arne says you can turn the spring around.
BTW, I would put a little LPS Molyd on the lugs of the barrel. I also just "smudge" a little on my finger and apply to those two tiny lugs underneath the unlock block. But, you should be OK until you reclean the gun after you shoot.