The full Owner's Manual is available for free download here.
From the Cleaning & Maintenance section:
Clean the barrel bore with a premium quality, powder removing solvent and bore brush. Wipe the bore clean with a bore patch or swab. Using a small brush and solvent, remove all deposits from around the breech of the barrel, and chamber, extractor, locking lugs, and adjacent areas which have been subjected to the action of the powder or primer residue. Remove any residue on the frame with light brushing and solvent. Clean the magazine well by removing any grit, dust, or residue with a magazine well swab.
The Boberg XR9-S comes pre-lubricated at the factory with a non-evaporating lubricant. However, it is recommended that the XR9-S be periodically lubricated, especially after cleaning. In Figures 13-20 the key lubrication points are shown. One drop of oil in each area is recommended. Any excess lubricant should be wiped off, especially on the grip area. While we currently use Break-Free CLP™ brand lubricant; any product of equivalent performance should be sufficient.
And use a Moly-based lube such as LPS on the unlock block as shown:
All good info above Mikedoh. What you could do is get a couple of extra return springs for the XR. They're not expensive. If you have a carry gun, I would keep using the same spring to practice at the range and when you are satisfied with the gun's operation, put in a new spring for carry purposes. Just be careful not to bend that rod. Regarding the lubing process, the manual shows you where but as you go along you will find your own additional locations to lube. There are two types of "lubers"...light lubers and those who do a little more lubing. I'm in the last category and have my own rituals. Use the LPS and BreakFree CLP. I stick a straw into the BreakFree bottle and drip the oil at specific locations. Due to the viscosity of the oil, it will penetrate to other areas. When done, I wipe the gun, put it into a white old athletic sock and into the safe. The oil will leach-out from the pivot points. I check on it in a day or two and just wipe it down again. The oil gets to where it should, gun is properly lubed and you can wash and reuse the old socks of throw them away. Saves you from damaging your pistol cases or purchasing those 15.00 dollar gun socks. Another trick is to spray the unlock block with Birchwood Casey Moly Lube and in the magazines after I clean the lips with a Q-Tip. It's a dry lube and won't gunk-up anything. You can light lube the unlock block with your finger but don't forget to put that LPS grease where it belongs and a little on the barrel lugs. I also use Rem Oil as an alternative lube.
When I first got my old Two Tone XR Arne advised to put some LPS on all the "protuberances." So, any thing that has a "lug" on it, gets a little LPS. To clean I have used Powder Blast and Gun Scrubber. That stuff is basically the same or similar solvent to dry cleaning fluid. I also use Hoppes Elite. I try to keep the other solvent off of the grips. Powder blast removes plastic shotgun residue from inside shotgun barrels. I use Hoppes No. 9 as bore solvent. I've used EEXOX, here and there inside but it's a dry solvent. Arne likes the BreakFree CLP. You'll get your own routine going. Basic gun oil like Hoppes is fine but I think the other stuff we talked about is more penetrating and cleans a bit...Rem Oil, Break Free CLP, etc. We could get away with LPS and Break Free CLP as our main lube. EEZOX seems OK for the magazine but keep them dry. Don't want any penetration into the bullet primers from oil.
A video of common gun lubricants on steel with salt water spray showing that Corrosion X, BreakFree CLP and FrogLube yield the best results, while not looking good for Rem Oil:
If I may comment since the response wasn't directed to me specifically. I believe the old adage for gun cleaning is to "never let the sun set on a dirty gun." In this "experiment" it appears one man's "lube" is another's "rust instigator." If a firearm is cleaned properly and I was advised at the age of 14 by my riflery mentor, that you can clean a rifle bore with boiling water, as long as you dry and lubricate it, then one may use any of the mentioned lubricants if the firearm is going to be used regularly, say once a week possibly. If we store firearms for longer periods, we lube with what we trust, grease the bore and sometimes leave the firearm "broken-down" and wrapped in a rust preventative. I don't intend to "lube and bury a Boberg," to either test condensation against viscosity nor anti-rust qualities of the "best" lubricant. Not even for Four Star Lube. Arne's made his recommendation and that's mostly what I follow.
Being one who tends to pay attention to "custom builder" recommendations, I'm wondering of someone can expand on the significance of Arne's recommended LPS Moly/Graphite All-Purpose Anti-Seize #04110 grease having Aluminum Complex Thickener type properties while being free of nickel or copper.
Over time I have come to appreciate wisdom of John Paul of J.P. Rifles who recommends Rydol NLGI-2 Hexagonal Boron Nitride (HBN) – Moly (MoS2) Extreme Pressure Non-Seize Lubricant for the contact surfaces and hammer in his superb fire control systems.
Does anyone have any reason to believe that LPS #04110's Moly/Graphite Anti-Seize is more efficacious than Rydol's Hexagonal Boron Nitride/Moly for lubricating the unlock block?
It contains "anti-matter."
If I remember correctly I ruled out Rydol HBN which I think is slightly superior. When I inquired about their percentage of HBN it was in the low single digits. Which to me means almost straight grease.
Tungsten Disulphide (Dark Matter) has better physical lubrication properties than Moly or Hex Boron Nitride. I believe the Hex Boron Nitride also has better characteristics than moly. I am unsure why the combination is more useful than one or the other as a single component. The Moly forms a surface bond. Boron Nitride may or may not form a bonded surface film; I am not sure because I skipped over Boron Nitride to WS2.
Grease performance is a concern. It keeps a fresh supply of active ingredient on the mating surfaces and could provide hydraulic protection. I have been unable to get an answer to how much the hydraulic component (i.e., grease) affects the performance in the critical points vs a dry film.
WS2 will form a tight surface bond. There are some WS2 greases. They are somewhat difficult to buy. I believe a US vendor will have some available in the near future. The US material and one that is difficult to find, both use the Fullerene like form, which has somewhat better characteristics than normal WS2. WS2 (and Moly) can both be used as a dry lubricant.
I use dry WS2 on my guns. The grease will go on the Shorty's key points, because Arne specifies grease. So far, the dry interfaces seem to work nicely. The "smooth" surfaces of finished metals are quite un-smooth at microscopic and lower levels. As the high spots get worn off (i.e., "break-in"), the WS2 will plate the exposed surface and fill depressions. Friction will continue to be reduced. My guess is that using an oil with the lubricant in it, would maintain the plating process. But a periodic application of the dry material would also maintain the plating. And it is less messy, does not attract dust or burned powder, and does not care about temperature. I have not put any WS2 in the barrel. It is slippery enough that it will impact the gun performance. The bullets move too quickly for the full pressure to build. A shorty may not be noticeably affected, but it will be happening. Particularly for a longer gun, doing your own loading can deal with the issue. It is not huge.
I replaced the oil in a fairly new Honda with an oil containing the Fullerene like WS2. Unscientific evaluation (e.g., using the gas added and miles traveled) shows a 2-3 MPG improvement. Note that a large number of engine oils contain Moly in one form or another, in varying quantities.
I have provided Boberg Arms information for getting samples the grease for evaluation. I have not received any feedback.
Touché, but it need not matter.